©ourtesy of ARTINFO

Fashion Designer on Her Way to a Posthumous Comeback?

Elsa Schiaparelli

Elsa Schiaparelli’s Shoe Hat (collaboration with Salvador Dalí), winter 1937-38 / Courtesy Tumblr

Elsa Schiaparelli and Dalí’s lobster dress / Courtesy Philadelphia Museum of Art

Eight years after a career retrospective at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, Elsa Schiaparelli is back in the spotlight with an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute and an announcement from Italian businessman Diego Della Valle that he is relaunching the brand that bears her name. With all the buzz surrounding the show and the revival, is the late fashion designer on her way to a posthumous comeback?

Elsa Schiaparelli revolutionized fashion in the 1930s with her surrealist tromp l’oeil sweaters, lobster dress, and whimsical prints. In 1934 Time hailed her as “the one to whom the word ‘genius’ is applied most often,” and said that Elsa Schiaparelli was a more dominant influence in fashion at the time than her biggest rival, Coco Chanel. But in the end, it was Chanel who triumphed after Schiaparelli shuttered her business in 1954, due to the post-war economic downturn.Why revive a label that failed at its first shot at longevity? The prospect of profitability, some argue, is linked to two main factors: brand recognition, and a desire on the part of consumers to relive an idealized time in fashion.

“There is a mystique regarding fashion’s past — the nostalgic glow of a particular style of dressing, a particular series of events defining an era, eccentric personalities, incredible workmanship,” said Michael Fink, dean at Savannah College of Art and Design School of Fashion and former Saks Fifth Avenuefashion director, in an email to ARTINFO. “Certain labels allow us to reminisce about perceived better times or a better life. Labels that have this built-in heritage lure us into a fantasy.”

The move seems to be the trend du jour, with dormant brands like couture house Mainbocher and footwear label Herbert Levine announcing plans for returns in recent weeks. French entrepreneur Arnaud de Lummen, who has made a business out of buying defunct luxury brands like Mainbocher, Herbert Levine, and Vionnet and revamping them, told WWD, “It’s reassuring to consumers that you’re not a newcomer.”

Based on relaunches of the past decade, it’s difficult to predict the fate of the new Schiaparelli brand. Halston was revived by Harvey Weinstein in 2007 after a series of failed attempts to bring the company back to its glory days, only to dissolve last summer when Weinstein pulled out his investment. Balmain, which closed in 2003 due to bankruptcy only to be brought back to life by investors in 2005, is now hailed by such actresses as Gwyneth Paltrow and Audrey Tautou, and fashion editors like Paris Vogue’s Emmanuelle Alt, for its tough-chic glamour.

“I think it could work,” Jayne Mountford, trend forecaster, founder, and managing editor of Hall Five Trend Forum told ARTINFO via email. “We are in a time of hyperbolic fashion, which Schiaparelli was known for. But really, doesn’t it all depend on the right designer plus bag plus shoe equals success. With that winning formula, it could be the next Balenciaga. Unfortunately, without it, Halston, or worse still, Ungaro.”

For Fink, success depends on identifying the consumer base and developing a product in line with clients’ needs. In Schiaparelli’s case, Della Valle is targeting the extremely wealthy, calling his business model “prêt-a-couture,” a level that, according to the Financial Times, “lands somewhere between very high-end ready-to-wear and the made-for-you couture extravaganzas that cost from €20,000 ($25,460).” The label won’t use advertising and will only sell the garments out of one space — 21 Place Vendôme in Paris — the location of Schiaparelli’s original atelier.

“Your product has to offer something that is perceived as unique, a reason to purchase,” said Fink. “That could be the actual clothing, a lifestyle, an association with celebrity, workmanship. At the luxury level, quality is paramount.”

Then there is the selection of the right designer, and fashion industry insiders and onlookers have been gossiping about that subject for the past few months.

In March, WWD reported that Della Valle denied rumors that he plans to name the embattled designer John Galliano — who was ousted from Dior last year after several drunken anti-Semitic confrontations — as the new Schiaparelli designer. But some believe that he may be up for the position.

W magazine editor Stefano Tonchi reluctantly gave Galliano his endorsement to head Schiaparelli at last week’s Costume Institute Gala, according to the Cut. Galliano has already proven himself to be more than capable of handling the job – he succeeded in breathing new life into Dior when he became creative director of the brand in 1996, and continuously produced exquisitely detailed designs for the label.

Regardless of who is plucked for the position, Della Valle has all the essential plans in place for the Schiaparelli relaunch. The atelier renovations will be completed in July, the designer will be announced in September, and the first runway presentation will take place during Paris Fashion Week in March. But ultimately, whether or not Schiaparelli’s brand name will thrive in its second life is up to the well-heeled ladies who make up its target market.

“It’s how you deliver the product and message that will affect your success,” said Fink. “Fashion is terribly fleeting in its recognition of things new.”

Click on the slide show to see images of Elsa Schiaparelli’s designs.

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©ourtesy of fabulousmag.co.uk by Cara Leps

Fabulous summer swimwear guide

Big boobs

Help the girls out! A well-supported underwired bikini top is a massive must for boosting your bust. You should buy your tops and bottom in different sizes to ensure you have the perfect fit.

Bikini top, £19.50, bottoms, £15, both Marks & Spencer

Bikini top, £8, bottoms, £4, both George at Asda; bikini top, £51, bottoms, £26, both Moontide at Simply Beach; bikini top, £19.50, bottoms, £15, both Marks & Spencer

Bikini top, £22, bottoms, £18, both Geri at Next; bikini top, £22, bottoms, £14, both Debenhams; bikini top, £18, bottoms, £12, both Next

Bikini top, £44, bottoms, £25.50, both Moontide at Simply Beach; bikini top, £28, bottoms, £19, both Lepel; bikini top, £14, bottoms, £12, both Isme

Stockists: ASOS (Asos.com), Boohoo (Boohoo.com), By Caprice (Bycaprice.com), Calzedonia (Calzedonia.it), Debenhams (0844 561 6161), Fashion Union (Fashionunion.com), Gap (Gap.com), George at Asda (0500 100055), House of Fraser (0845 602 1073), Isme (Isme.com), Lepel (0115 983 6000), Marks & Spencer (0845 302 1234), Nelly (Nelly.com), Next (0870 243 5435), Primark (0118 960 6300), Pull & Bear (0800 015 9735), River Island (0844 576 6444), Seaspray (Seasprayswimwear.com), Simply Beach (Simplybeach.com), Store Twenty One (Storetwentyone.co.uk), Urban Outfitters (0845 330 1288), Warehouse (0845 122 2251) Photography: Lancton, Pixeleyesphotography.co.uk Make-up: Aimee Adams using Shu Uemura Hair: Sheridan Ward at Era using Kiehl’s Stylist’s assistant: Lis Evenstad Models: Anisia at Milk, Amy Wilson at Premier, Lauren Mellor at Union, Saffi at Strom Contact !!

Boyish

Hourglass

Show off your curves! A swimsuit with a nipped-in waist is ultra flattering, while a large print is slimming. Choose a high-waisted bikini to lengthen legs.

Swimsuit, £84, Seaspray

Bikini top, £40, bottoms, £15, both Calzedonia; swimsuit, £29.50, Marks & Spencer; Tankini, £20, Fashion Union

Swimsuit, £59, Calzedonia; bikini, £28, Urban Outfitters; swimsuit, £78, Seaspray

Swimsuit, £29.50, Marks & Spencer; bikini top, £44, bottoms, £31, both Moontide at Simply Beach; bikini, £35, Urban Outfitters

Pear-shaped

It’s all about having some padding on top for bigging up boobs, drawing the eye upward, and strings on the bottom for slimming down hips. The good news is, any pattern or colour goes!

Bikini top, £18, bottoms, £14, both House of Fraser; visor, £2, sunglasses, £2, both Primark

Bikini top, £14.95, bottoms, £15.95, both Gap; Bikini top, £9.99, bottoms, £4.99, both Store Twenty One

Bikini top, £30, bottoms, £15, both Calzedonia; bikini, £12, Boohoo; bikini top, £15.99, bottoms, £15, both Pull & Bear

Bikini top, £14, bottoms, £12, both Warehouse; bikini, £37.95, Wonderland at Nelly; bikini top, £31, bottoms, £25.50, both Moontide at Simply Beach.

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Special Vintage Drawings

©ourtesy of Gentlemen’s Gazette

Fashion illustration from the 1930′s enjoyed by many of our readers have an affinity to  for artists like  L. Fellows,  Leslie Saalburg, and J. C. Leyendecker. While we mostly discuss editorial pictures, I want to focus on fashion illustration from magazine ads today. Back in the day, it was normal for a publisher to design an ads together with the advertiser. Though as you can imagine, a magazine publisher could only employ a limited number of fashion illustrators to serve all their clients. In order to demonstrate each brand’s unique image, the fashion illustration were often very different from each other.

Arrow Shirts Sanforized Shrink 1931

Interestingly, ads from the early 1930′s have a stronger resemblance of the 1920′s illustrations ads, which were more simplistic and relied more heavily on lines than details. Nevertheless, even during that time period, there were huge differences in drawing styles, and soon you would see illustrated ads that were just as nice as the illustration you all enjoy so much. Now, let’s discuss a few ads and styles:

Arrow Shirts

By the 1930′s, Arrow had established itself as a respected shirt manufacturer in the US.

Earl-Glo – The Artitocrat of Linings 1931

This success was at least partly owed to the fabulous fashion illustrations by J.C. Leyendecker. On the left, you see a illustration in the typical Leyendecker style, featuring a high white detachable collar and a drawing style that is detailed yet very characteristic.

Earl-Glo

If you compare it to the Earl-Glo Lining ads, you can see the differences.  At first glance, the Earl looks like the ad was painted in oil, but upon closer inspection, you can see that it was drawn by hand. In any case, the Earl looks more like a gentlemen from the 19th century, with his ruffled shirt front and cuffs, neck jewelry and Pince-Nez. I can only assume this

Tailored At Fashion Park 1931

brand wanted to emphasize their heritage quality and so decided to use a historic motif in combination with a illustration style that implies glory. In combination with the golden background and the Aristocrat product description, the ads promised an upper class product of the utmost quality.

Tailored At Fashion Park

The gentleman in black is very different. The artist reduced the detailed area to the head and the hands, while the suit itself is all black. All you can see is the silhouette, which is still quite pleasing in my opinion. This way, the cuffs, pocket square, collar and tie really pop out.

Thermo Knitted Soprtswear

Thermo Knitted Sportswear 1931

Thermo Knitted Sportswear chose an entirely different approach. Here, the contrasting color creates an eye catching effect. The faces of the men show high levels of contrast and only little detail, while the different sweater styles are clearly visible.

Palm Beach Suits – White Linen

Palm Beach Suits famously advertised the white suit, although they had many other colors in their portfolio. Their ads were usually black and white, showing people in their summer linen suits with Panama Hats. One of their selling points was the fact that you could wash the suit without shrinkage! In this ad, they even added a cloth sample so buyers could see what they would get. Today, this is would be farfetched,

Palm Beach Suits

considering the amount of  handwork required in the process of adding fabric samples to magazines ads. Ironically, the brand with the iconic West Coast name had their suits produced in Sanford, Maine.

Makransky Philadelphia

Makransky from Philadephia chose yet another approach to fashion illustration. The figures have a very soft look to them and the colors are slightly subdued. To me, it looks like a painting rather than an illustration. I really adore the colors of the gentleman on the left. He wears a blue Ulster style overcoat with a off white hat and matching gloves. The look is complimented by a yellow scarf and beige full cut trousers.

Frank H. Lee Co. Hats Danbury

Makransky Philadelphia

The Frank H. Lee Hat Company from the hatter town Danbury. Their figures have the minimalistic 1920′s fashion illustration lines, but the colors make all the difference. One thing I really like about these ads is their attention to detail: Frank H. Lee used to sell hats and you can specifically see a snap brim and a Homburg style hat, though the rest of the outfits is very interesting as well. The chap on the left wears a chamois yellow overcoat with raglan sleeves and notched lapels over a dark brown double breasted suit. His sand colored gloves are a great way to add the final touch to his look. The gent on the right wears a double breasted suit in navy and since he wears the less formal snap brim,

Frank H Lee Co. Hats, Danbury

he combines it with a horizontally striped shirt, boutonniere, pocket square and grey gloves.

Conclusion

Overall, there were numerous styles of fashion illustration in the 1930′s that were utilized in magazine illustration advertisements. Soon, photography would make a huge impact on the industry and fashion illustration vanished entirely. To me, they are a lost art form; I always enjoy looking at these elegant illustration. What do you think about these ads?

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Celebrities Honor Two Great Designers at Event

Schiaparelli and Prada, many guests at this year’s ultimate fashion gala on Monday night observed some surprising similarities between two women whose work is separated by half a century. Walking through the displays of ugly-chic dresses and slightly surreal designs in a new Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibition that compares the designers Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada.  “I loved the play of the two of them together,” said Tom Ford, arriving at the Costume Institute gala with the model Chanel Iman, who wore a dress made of pheasant feathers molded to her body. “It was amazing how hard it was to differentiate some of the pieces.”  Best not mention that to Mrs. Prada, one of the most influential female designers in recent history, who initially rebuffed the museum’s plans to mount an exhibition that compared her to Schiaparelli, who died in 1973.

Mrs. Prada said in many interviews about the show that she had never been inspired by the work of her predecessor. “Well,” Mr. Ford said, “Coco Chanel said that creativity is the art of concealing your sources. :: Best Dressed Attendees :: ”©NYtimes story by ERIC WILSONFashion snap.

Mrs. Prada, in an embroidered ivory tunic and trousers, evening pants being a big look of the night, avoided most interviews. At one point, there was talk that she might not come. After a lengthy chat over cocktails with the actor James Franco and the artist Marina Abramovic, she was asked if she was satisfied with the show. “Yes, but it’s too late,” she said, meaning for questions. Oh, but everyone else wanted to talk, especially the celebrities and superstar athletes who dominated the guest list. Tim Tebow was there wearing Ralph Lauren and being sweet to all of the women who approached him, including one who asked Mr. Tebow whom he was standing next to. “Well, that’s Tom Brady,” Mr. Tebow said. Over there was Beyoncé, in a gown that was sheer but beaded at the same time. Turn around and it was Cate Blanchett in a concoction of black feathers by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen. And just what could Gwyneth Paltrow be talking about for so long with Kanye West? Oh, hello, Mick Jagger. What are you wearing? “My creation,” Mr. Jagger said, affecting some sort of grand accent that suggested that he had been overcome by the beauty of the exhibition. “I am wear-ing my cray-ya-tion! All this dee-zi-yen is mii-yen!”  Moving on, Marc Jacobs seemed sane by comparison. He wore a see-through dress made of black lace, with black socks and white boxer briefs that were perfectly visible. “Brooks Brothers, I think,” he said. Anna Wintour, the Vogue editor and a chairwoman of the event who oversaw every detail, wore a white Prada dress with embroidered silver stones in the shape of a lobster, a tribute to a famous Schiaparelli design made in collaboration with Salvador Dalí. Many guests wore elaborate or bizarre dresses in honor of Schiaparelli, who once made a hat from an upside-down shoe. One guest had a Coca-Cola bottle on her head; another, Linda Fargo, the fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman, wore a bejeweled cape that would have been the envy of Elvis. And the actress Emma Stone, a guest of the designer Alber Elbaz of Lanvin, wore a short pink dress made of rainproof plastic. Carey Mulligan, the actress who, as a co-chairwoman, stood in a receiving line greeting 800 guests, seemed to enjoy the attention paid to her dress, a stiff gold halter made of shiny gold paillettes, also by Prada. “Everybody told me this was going to be boring,” Ms. Mulligan said. “But I had the best time.”

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• Marc Jacobs at the Met Ball 2012: ‘I just didn’t wanna wear a tuxedo and be boring’ (fashion.telegraph.co.uk)

by Creative Director, Manish Arora

Manish Arora, a fashion designer known for his wild prints, bright psychedelic colors, and over the top looks, was appointed the creative director of Paco Robanne early last year.

©ourtesy TWELV

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©ourtesy of Jayson Brunsdon @ NationalTimesAU

Fashion Week is a seasonal industry. But unlike in the natural world, fashion’s seasons move with the times. Fashion Designers used to put clothes from our spring and summer collections into the stores when the weather got warm, but now we put them into stores in the middle of winter. And we put winter clothes into stores in the middle of summer. This, I believe, is just symptomatic of society at large. Everything has sped up. People have shorter concentration spans and want to see something new on a regular basis. The stores have to give their customers a constant flow of fresh stock to entice them to buy.When it comes to a clothing line, change is central to fashion brands; it is what keeps it exciting. But fashion’s shifting seasons outfit ideas are one example of how coming up with new outfit ideas twice a year is no longer enough for the industry to keep thriving clothing line. Sometimes bigger structural changes are needed, and this is one of those times.  Next year, Fashion Week may move forward two months to get in sync with the industry’s new ”seasons”, bringing forward the annual cycle of Australia’s designers. Collections now need to be shown earlier than May to give fashion designers enough time to produce the dress code for clothes and get them into stores in July and August. IMG Fashion, the organisers of Fashion Week, consulted fashion designers last year about the timing issue. I think, overall, the view is that the event needs to be moved forward if it’s going to be a spring/summer showcase. The other important thing for Fashion Week Australia is that Australian magazine editors who travel overseas for the international shows are back in town in time for our event, and international buyers and media can also get there. If the Paris shows end in early March, then late March would be perfect timing for Sydney fashion week. The event is more important than ever as a branding exercise for Australian fashion designers, as we are becoming more focused on our particular niche to fend off competition from the likes of Zara and other foreign raiders. Over the past five years, the internet has made fashion week  more of an entertainment than a commercial industry. Everyone can see live online what’s going on at the Paris shows outfit ideas. They can even watch it live from their phone. When it comes down to it, most designers today are really showing for the media, and for the audience outside the tent. The event is about branding as much as it is about selling clothes to buyers from stores. Most of us have already sold the season by the time we get around to Fashion Week. However, the branding opportunities that result from Fashion Week are just as crucial as the sales that result. I have a cheaper diffusion line and a homewares line, for example, so showing my main collection at Fashion Week is about getting my name out there. People see the $1000 dresses but they might later go into Myer and see a plate with my name on it and that’s what the show is about. Also, it is prohibitively expensive to show overseas. You need your own team, a casting agent, press and sales agents and you have to take all the clothes with you. I showed in New York four times before the global financial crisis hit. We would carry the entire collection with us on the plane because we were scared of sending it by courier. What if it got lost? We were better off risking being stopped by customs. So we sat on the plane for 24 hours in a sweat. Then there is the added competition from high street brands such as Zara, which is challenging for our fashion designers because they’re designer looks but extremely inexpensive. People aren’t as loyal to brands as they were in the past. They’re shopping online, getting great bargains and deals. It focuses the mind and forces the designer to concentrate on their strengths. You really need to know who your customer is, what she wants, where she’s going and how she’s wearing it. And you need to show people how you are different. It’s vital for local fashion designers that we get Fashion Week in Australia right. But there are signs it will evolve, as these discussions have already begun with the event organisers. :: Jayson Brunsdon is a Sydney fashion designer – - Read more:

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Justin Timberlake Brings His Sexy Style to HomeMint

©ourtesy of Cathy Zinderman @ Justluxe

Photo Credit: Peggy Sirota/HomeMint

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Final Call For “Fashion Fringe” Entries, 4-27-2012! Burberry’s Christopher Bailey has £100K For This Year’s Winner

Fashion Fringe has become one of the most well-known design competitions in the world offering young fashion talent winner the chance to win a whopping £100,000 towards the establishment of their very own fashion label. In just 7 days’ time submissions will be closed and a shortlist of 10 designers will be selected by this year’s Fashion Fringe Chair, Burberry’s Christopher Bailey. After a nail-biting ‘Technical-Day’ and interview with the FF board, three finalists will be selected to battle it out on the catwalk at London Fashion Week and the winner will be announced with fanfare after the three shows have been presented to the fash-pack. With such a fantastic opportunity to grab the attention of global fashion editors, one thing you can be sure of is that the competition will be rife for the winner.And offering more than just 15 seconds of fame, the prize also includes a two year development package including funding, mentoring and an equipped studio space at LFW venue Somerset House. Aside from these obvious benefits, the winner will join the super successful FF alumni. Victors over the past 9 years have included Basso & Brooke, Erdem, Corrie Nielsen and Fyodor Golan while previous FF Chairs have included Donatella Versace, Roland Mouret and John Galliano.

What’s more although a working UK Visa is required, applicants do not need any formal qualifications to enter the competition offering the handy seamstresses and budding designers out there the chance to get involved. So what are you waiting for? With a weekend of never-ending drizzle ahead, you will have plenty of time to polish your application!

To submit your work, go to www.fashionfringe.co.uk/apply before the deadline on 27^th of April.

London Fashion Week Designer, Roksanda Ilincic’s Hot Pink dress 

©ourtesy of Olivia Bergin

London Fashion Week  just Last month, featured our very own fashion editor Lisa Armstrong prediction that the hot pink, lantern-sleeved creation by Roksanda Ilincic could well be the new Galaxy Dress. To the uninitiated, she was referring to the utterly feminine curve-enhancing dress by Roland Mouret loved by Victoria Beckham, Carol Vorderman, Dita Von Teese and too many more to mention, which catapulted the designer into the public sphere. And it seems she was right. Who knew that the CEO of Newton Investment Management, Helena Morrissey, would pick the same dress as the perma-tanned, style-conscious wife of Manchester United striker Coleen Rooney? But that’s exactly what has happened. Morrissey, a mother of nine and holder of a CBE, chose the £899 Margot style to dazzle at the Veuve Clicquot Business Woman of the Year Awards in London last night.

Only last week, Rooney made her grand Aintree entrance in the same dress design, but owing to her petite frame she took the hem up and cinched it with a patent belt – an act which some fashion insiders frowned upon. The publicity will no doubt fuel the dress’s success further, although London Fashion week store Matches had already sold out of the dress 80 times over by mid-March. Hollywood actress Ginnifer Goodwin has also fallen for the dress’s charms, debuting the London Fashion Week spring/summer 2012 design at a premiere back in January. Ilincic’s Margot certainly packs an almighty punch, so much so that it’s like the sartorial opposite of a little black dress and not the sort of number one could drag out for every big occasion. But the dress is such a sublime shade of pink, the sort of pink that once you set eyes on it, you can’t stop dreaming about it. – - Read more

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Oscar de la Renta & Vera Wang 2013 Colors

Oscar de la Renta sent a model down his Bridal Spring 2013 runway wearing pants and a crop top Monday. Taking his cue from one of the most notable trends to come out of the spring 2012 ready-to-wear collections, the designer teamed the ab-fab trend with the traditional. Designer’s banded together in support of the midriff during the spring shows in September, with retro-style bras worn as tops making multiple appearances. Often paired with a pencil or flared skirt, a la Sophia Loren

or a latter-day Bridgette Bardot, or they were seen in crop tops teamed with slouchy, relaxed trousers for a sporty feel. Oscar de la Renta echoed the trend in this relaxed and modern, yet simultaneously elegant and classic silhouette. While it might not conform to your more custom and accepted bridal get-up, this look is just one of the many fashion-forward, less-traditional, trends coming out of this season’s Bridal Fashion Week. Unorthodox was a prominent theme throughout the Oscar de la Renta show – there were baby blue tiered tulle skirts, a scarlet red chiffon gown and a pastel printed floral dress covered in sequined embroidery. Every other look told a story of either grandeur or tradition, with voluminous, princess-worthy gowns walking right next to corded Chantilly lace and elaborate lace-trimmed cathedral veils. However Oscar de la Renta is not the only designer turning traditional wedding outfits on their heads. Carolina Herrera, the designer behind the famed Twilight wedding dress, debuted a bridal collection full of looks created to cater to various different sensibilities.  Most noteworthy was her ‘trench’ gown, a strapless dress with a double-breasted, buttoned bodice, and a classic pantsuit complete with a look-at-me wide brimmed straw hat. Bianca Jagger’s masculine ivory tuxedo for her wedding with Mick Jagger immediately springs to mind, the perennially classic but off-kilter choice seamlessly blending traditional with modern. The designer told Reuters: ‘I think it’s totally fun because it’s different from what you’re expecting a bride to wear.’ In complete disregard for the often-strict bridal code, Vera Wang’s collection, although seeped in tradition, was entirely red. The designer showed breathtaking and other-worldly gowns in dahlia red, scarlet, rust, crimson and vermilion. While Ms Wang showed not a speck of white or ivory, Oscar de la Renta dabbled in the colour, which the Chinese believe brings fortune and luck, featuring two red dresses in his collection. If not just making Bridal Fashion Week a little less yawn-inducing, these designers are proving that trend, tradition and personality can work together flawlessly when it comes to saying ‘I do’. ©ourtesy of dailymail.co.uk

Christian Louboutin, Manolo Blahnik, Vibram

Fashion’s Toe Moment

©ourtesy of Misty White Sidell

“Toes cleavage, Manolo Blahnik’s new heels emphasize, Martin Margiela plays up the feet, and Vibram’s “barefoot”  size sneakers are more popular than ever. Misty White Sidell on the toe moment”.

©ourtesy of  Karen Ostlund

Paul Redmond Design

“Concept fashion – it’s when music, art & fashion come together as one”

It takes place twice a year, at Ace Gallery in Hollywood.

Concept fashion week, Hollywood’s bi-annual event, was as last season located at Ace Gallery (5414 Wilshire) and welcomed 16 designers, two nights of runway shows,  and creative installations. This March fashion- presentations featured fall 2012 season’s runway collections and installations by: MIKE VENSEL, HENRY DUARTE, BRYAN HEARNS, PAUL REDMOND, MEMENIC, NUVULA, S&G, CHAMBERS, THAI NUYGEN, CURLY V, BELLE N. MATISSE, ELAINE ALLEN, ZuBAUEN, GYPSY JUNKIES, LAILI LAU, NAMI and JEN AWAD.

Edgy, Dark & Spanish style for S & G by Sequoia and Gita

Concept fashion week was founded by fashion designer Mike Vensel and downtown Los Angeles visionary Brady Westwater in 2010. The concept was seen as a new alternative for designers wanting to showcase their latest collections under their own terms.

Vensel and Westwater had produced fashion shows in Los Angeles since 2004, and also worked together to launch many shows over the years.

Bryan Hearns Design

Concept Los Angeles at ACE Gallery has become the creative platform born out of the modern Mecca of marketing, which is Los Angeles today. The aim of Concept is to merge entertainment with some of the

most upcoming  fashion designers, artists and musicians of the moment.

How Concept Fashion Week all started: 

Doug Christmas, owner of ACE Gallery, had an interest to get more involved in the fashion industry, and approached fashion designer Henry Duarte. Duarte introduced Concept to Doug, and the rest is history – a month later they announced their newly formed partnership. right, Henry Duarte wearing his design

Doug Christmas and Duarte explained in an earlier interview:

“Many designers are looking for a new way to showcase their collection . Having a beautiful raw space as a blank canvas in which designers can push their creative boundaries and expand the idea of what a fall fashion show can be, from a traditional runway show to video projections, to live performance art, there are no boundaries restricting the way a designer can communicate their vision”.

Ace Gallery on 5514 Wilshire blvd is an enormous labyrinth, which has space for everybody with interest in fashion & art. The only drawback with this venue is that the main floor has only one unisex bathroom, and you had to walk three floors up for additional.

Nuvula

Columbian designers Rebeca and Vanessa Victoria of Nuvula, kicked off opening night with theatrics and colors.

Los Angeles  Fall Winter 2012 collection titled, “In the airs of La Belle Époque,” was a tribute in colors and textures to Gustav Klimt and Toulouse Lautrec and the imaginary wardrobes of their muses. Nuvula’s fashion show started off with a live performance of ‘El Tango De Roxanne” from the movie Moulin Rouge. The singer was accompanied by a violinist and a cellist, so the music set an more operatic tone. The eco-line consisted of pieces inspired by 20’s, 30’s and Art Deco – in geometric shapes, patterns and silhouettes. Inspiration was also drawn from Asian luxury – Chinese and Japanese hybrids and Samurai armors. The fabrics were made with hemp and bamboo and low impact H20 dyes. In addition, Nuvula uses no animal products, choosing to use only vegan leathers, and is strictly anti-fur. nuvula.com

Chambers men’s line

The Gypsy Junkies collection is

always contemporary and never contrived.

Brainchild of LA transplant, Marcus Paglialonga and his mother Cynthia Crighton – Gypsy Junkies’ design aesthetic is shaped mostly by their world travels and the luxurious textiles they discover along the way.  “The sartorial embodiment of bohemian & rebellion youth”. gypsyjunkies.com

Laili Lau Fall 2012 “The Wild Hunt” was characterized by daring and original clothes filled with Zen and spiritual freedom and space. It targets the young-spirited, sensible, modern and the unconventional woman who wants a trendy and relaxed look. Beyond the clothing brand or trend, Laili Lau is projected as a concept that aims to create social awareness and promote the respect for nature. The Laila Lau Fall 2012 concept reflects the textures of trees through clean cuts, cotton, wool and touches of glitter with sequins. The soft and delicate folds bring to this creation volumes and style of ancient tribes. laililau.com

Curly V Design

CURLY-V Curly-V is meant to bring just a bit of happiness into a world of uncertainty and darkness. It is for the trendsetting girl who isn’t afraid of taking chances and perhaps for some of the boys too. But mostly, Curly-V is for the dreamers of the world—it represents the beauty of the people and their unrelenting spirit to follow their dreams.”  curlyv.com

Jen Awad is a self-taught painter, artist and musician of Peruvian and Egyptian descent, but she was born here in Los Angeles. Awad has flair of embroidery with mod tattoos, to classic Hollywood glamour with beading details. The many zippers are dominating details on her dresses and mini-skirts for fall 2012.

Jen Awad

Jen Awad

The colors are black, brown, and white & pink floral, combined with metallic in jackets, skirts and long evening gowns. “My collection does for a woman, who is a free thinker, open minded and unrestrained”. It’s a compilation of looks, so the soundtrack to this current collection would be a fusion of electro punk with a nod to LA warehouse scenes, street style and embodies true underground LA style at Jen Awad.”  jenawad.com

Mike Vensel is an American fashion designer known for his minimalist aesthetic and use of traditional natural materials. Each Mike Vensel  collection explores natural, cultural and architectural elements and creates a fusion between organic design evolution and futuristic ideas of a second skin. With use of organic cottons, bamboo, recycled leather and silk overstocks the brand has an ecological responsibility that goes beyond eco marketing.

Mike Vensel Design

Vensel’s Fall 2012 design has light-winged silhouettes, which are joined by body-conscious and tunic styles. mikevensel.com

Thai Nguyen’s Fall 2012 Collection “Sultry Saigon” was an inspiration from the Vietnamese city Saigon.

Nguyen’s runway show featured dresses for three different occasions: Casual, red carpet and bridal-wear in satin, tulle and silk.

His color tones choices featured black, purple, navy and Jade-green as basic colors.

“The sequins and fringe reflect the bright lights of the motorbikes, which is a common scene of  the streets of Saigon. – Dark fabrics are mixed with soft jewel tones throughout the collection. It looks refreshing  to the hot and humidity – Saigon is known for”

Thai NGuyen’s “Sultry Saigon”

Elaine Marie Design

-“I want to create soft, airy dresses in silk materials, that will complement the female body, Thai Nguyen said. Thainguyencollections.com

Belle N Matisse

Nami Design

ZuBauen Design

Fashion Art Toronto (FAT) Arts & Fashion Week launches its 7th year from April 24th to April 28th in Toronto. For five fabulous days, FAT explores the art of fashion via runway shows, art exhibits, photography, fashion films and live performances.

The FAT 2012 theme fashionSCAPES mirrors the concept of landscapes: unique, seasonal and ever changing. Each night a different sub-theme will be explored around the ideas of land, city, body and future. – - get info

Event Highlights:

• April 24 – LANDscapes explores global landscapes and physical environments
• April 25 – CITYscapes visits metropolises and man-made environments; streets, structures and cities
• April 26 – BODYscapes investigate the body as a field for expressing identity, sexuality and gender
• April 27 – FUTUREscapes looks at new materials, technology, media and innovative processes
• April 28 – FATmarket is chance for the public to purchase clothing hot off the runway from FAT designers

FAT Venue – 213 Sterling Road, Toronto

Sponsors – Astral Out-of-Home, M by Maddie, Goethe-Institut

“The unique blend of fashion, art and culture make this festival a true mirror of the city of Toronto,” says Vanja Vasic, Executive Director of FAT. “The festival’s unique vision in presenting diverse perspectives in an inclusive environment, make this event a perfect backdrop for showcasing the immense talent from Canada and around the world.”

The FAT attitude comes to life again this year at our new festival location – a former industrial warehouse located at 213 Sterling Road – Toronto’s new up-and-coming arts & design district. Models will stomp their heels on an 80 foot-long runway featuring 52 innovative fashion collections from top designers within Canada and abroad.

FAT is the first festival of its kind to present fashion through a broad range of disciplines including – design, film, photography, arts and performance – all under one roof. The festival puts Canada on the fashion world stage as an innovative force to be reckoned with.

FAT has an International reputation for presenting and discovering cool new talent: for instance Wesley Badanjak, Heidi Ackerman, Martin Lim and Jasper Garvida. Now in its 7th year FAT has presented over 1,000 designers and artists since it first launched in 2005.

UK: London’s Talented Bunch

Designer treasure trove of the weird and wonderful was on show for AW12 at POP PR’s Press Day. An eclectic mix of rising fashion designer stars and one grand dame, the sheer creative genius of POP’s clients leaves one dizzy.

Designer Francesca Marotta’s AW12 collection is an almost gothic affair. Inspired by the women of Sicily who have “loved and lost,” the clothes have a dark and mournful, yet hauntingly beautiful quality; the subversive use of feminine shapes and fabrics bring a dainty element to the clothes that is not usually associated with the style. Milko’s stunning Perspex cuffs and crowns designer in conjunction with the collection are sharp contrasts that somehow work perfectly.

Iconic fashion designer and rock queen Pam Hogg, designs custom clothing to order. The designer AW12 collection, also presented at London Fashion Week, is quirky, futuristic and brings to mind the Handmaid’s Tale. The fashion designer is a self-taught brand of outrageous of fashion design, the boundary pushing clothing is starkly original. The collection bursts with silver and gold, reds and pinks, varying shades of white and black on leather, lace jumpsuits (Hogg’s signature look) that feature revealing see-through cut-outs and the clever use of banding, that are clearly inspired by the work of Pierre Cardin in the sixties, plus futuristic fashion design Dutch maid dresses trimmed with rabbit fur and amazing conical bonnets.

Mosaique’s AW12 fashion shoes are a refreshingly colorful collection to brighten up the dreary winter months. Using traditional shoe design shapes, these shoes will truly mark the wearer out from the crowd with the bright pop colors and prints. 

Fans of kitsch and the unusual, will love Simon Ekrelius’ fashion bags and accessories. Using super soft leather, Ekrelius creates amazingly detailed clutches, iPad cases and supple strapped fingerless gloves. The “cat tail” clutch bag – the tail is detachable – was a particular standout.

Ashley Isham always impresses. The designer, who has dressed Lady Gaga on more than one occasion and now works closely with a member of the singer’s styling team, has created a red carpet fashion worthy AW12 collection; stunning Grecian evening fashion gowns in emeralds and blacks and the perfect jacket to pair with such a dress in bronze leather that is exquisitely decorated with hand-sewn sequins.

Other notable designers on show include Marimodo and Nova Chiu. The stars of Marimodo’s AW12 fashion collections were the burgundy salmon skin trousers with side zips and a jacket and bolero made from goat hair, detailed with plaiting and braiding. Nova Chiu’s AW12 offering was the loudest collection on display. A riot of color and neon was used in creating intricate patterns that made the london fashion week designer clothing and shoes perfect for modern day flower children. The standout designer feature was that the insides of each garment is just as original as the outer fashion, making each piece reversible!

©ourtesy of Ian Michael Turner

Photos: Ian Michael Turner & Sara Reverberi

Fashion Week 2012 iD Dunedin, ruffled feathers enthused audiences, inspired bright young minds and changed some of them forever. What started as one show has now grown to an entire week of fashionable and outstanding events, parties, design previews and seminars. The iD Emerging Designers Awards took over the Edgar Center on Thursday night, with 28 collections from young designers representing seven countries. Guest judge and British fashion journalist Hilary Alexander was blown away by the high level of talent and creativity at the Dunedin Fashion show awards. “Emerging-talent schemes such as these are a real ‘fashion laboratory’ where all kinds of excitement can be conjured up” she said. Despite numerous entries from New Zealand contestants, it was the Australians who cleaned up this year, with first prize going to Carolina Barua, Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology; second to Patricia Kapeleris, University of Technology Sydney; and third place to Natalia Grzybowski of University of Technology Sydney. Chris Ran Lin of the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology won the Mittelmoda prize, giving him direct entry into the illustrious Mittelmoda fashion design competition in Italy. Friday and Saturday night saw the much anticipated iD Fashion Show, held at the Dunedin railway station. Now in its 13th year, the iD fashion show is held directly on the railway platform, and claims to be the longest catwalk in the Southern Hemisphere. The show featured 19 established New Zealand designers, highlights from the iD Emerging Designer Awards and guest designer and iD Dunedin fashion week Emerging Designer guest judge Lutz Huelle from Paris. The beauty of the iD Fashion Show is that it is current season, unlike a normal industry fashion week. The show is open to the public, and the clothing shown on the runway is available for purchase in stores right away. Audiences get the full ‘fashion show’ experience with bubbles, goodie bags, and (for some) front row seats at fashion show. New season makeup looks and the latest hair styles were also on display, with makeup created by Revlon and Ali McD Makeup School, and hair by Redken. First-timers to the iD show, Ruby and its new sibling label Liam, wowed audiences with their fashion-forward collections. Christchurch label MisteR had the audience in hysterics with a surprise catwalk appearance from Top Model judge Colin Mathura-Jeffree, who is a long-time fan.  Crowd favorites included Nom*D, Carlson, Mild Red, Charmaine Reveley, Company of Strangers, DADA Vintage and Vaughan Geeson.

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